Charming and peaceable, as it appears, but always watchful, on the qui vive, anxiously alert, which is not surprising when one sees the languid flight of the great skua, whose picture I snatched (I think) as I turned south (a large bird that eats puffins for breakfast and seizes gulls and drowns them under the waves), turned south
this time with a stranger from distant shores who was as surprised by me as I was by him as we both appeared in the mist, and continued then, together, as far as St Boniface Kirk. That was strange: in such a deserted place one hardly nods briefly at a passing stranger: at the edge of the world one pools ones
resources. Not at the edge of the world, perhaps, but it felt like that, until the mist started to lift and burn away in the sun which came out brilliantly as we walked south across the petrified mudflats and saw the hills of Westray still half covered in mist
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